The Pearl of the Danube

The moniker of "Pearl of the Danube" is actually the nickname of Vienna's sister city, Budapest, where the Danube plays more of a role in the city's feel and look. That is, the Danube actually runs through the city, and there are two banks, unlike in Vienna, which was really only settled on one side of the Danube.

Thus, on my third trip to Budapest, I noticed certain things I hadn't before, and was reminded of other impressions I'd gathered earlier as well.

Because the Danube so beautifully flows through Budapest, walking along the riverside, I was struck by how much Budapest reminds me of Paris. It's interesting that the placement of a river in a city could do so much to change its atmosphere. Budapest is a lot lighter, more open, and some ways, thus, friendlier, than Vienna. Other factors play into the "friendliness" bit too, however.

The Vienna Innere Stadt basically retains its Medieval atmosphere, with crowded cobblestone streets, and juxtaposes them with mammoth 18th century architectural structures designed by Maria Theresia during her rule of Austria-Hungary. Budapest has the same sorts of things, but also - as you will see - monolithic structures built into the stone of the Pest hills, which make it unique and splendid.

Also, whereas everything in Vienna is neatly preserved and beautifully maintained, due to corruption in government and overall lack of money to do anything like maintain UNESCO World Heritage sites, Hungary is in fact the opposite of Austria: a topsy-turvy Oz. Vienna through the Looking Glass. Everything is of the same construction: in that way, they truly are twinned cities architecturally. But since Vienna gets all that income from tourists, she has a reason to look nice. I do feel a bit like Alice in Wonderland nodding and smiling to shopkeepers chatting in Hungarian, or old women walking their Vizslas. Budapest's history with communism has left her bedraggled: still beautiful, but more solemn. And much the worse for wear.

Here are some photos. Unfortunately to me, all of the pictures of monuments end up turning out the same, no matter how you photograph them, or from what angle. You may have a different opinion.

Heilige Drei Königen

Happy Epiphany!

Just wanted to share some photos of the "traditional" Austrian Christmas tree:

With real candles, though not lit in the photo: 

And the Nativity scene, which is all important on days like today, where the arrival of the three kings in Bethlehem is celebrated (i.e., in Austria, just another excuse to have a party!)

Weihnachtsmärkte

Fröhliche Weihnachten!

To celebrate the season, I've been going to the various Christmas markets Vienna is famous for, and collecting pictures along the way. Here are some "iconic" ones:

Ein kleines Update...

For those keeping up, my landlady recently moved back in from being abroad in the USA with her daughter to help take care of her new grandbaby. Over a weekend, my living situation dramatically changed. I'm sure it will all be great, but at the moment, I'm still in the struggling, "gotta get used to this" mode. The biggest struggle is sharing not only with Jo, but with her family - especially the other grandbabies that live in Vienna!


I like kids, don't get me wrong. But I haven't had to deal (up close and personal like) with babies since my 10th grade babysitting gigs stopped. Seriously. Listening to little screams the minute I get through the door from work is almost making me reconsider having my own kids. At least in the near future...although, they are pretty adorable when they're not screaming their heads off. Like most people.


School is school. My schedule is a lot different this year than last year. I'm teaching until 6pm twice a week (for Wahlpflichtfächer, or mandatory elective courses) which is a bit tiring, especially since last year I only taught in the mornings, having every afternoon free. It's a little depressing leaving and coming home in the dark - at this time of year, at least. 


Also, for those interested, I will officially not be coming home for Christmas. Unfortunately, I didn't book a flight early enough to get a good deal, and last-minute flights are ungodly expensive. This means I will be in Vienna for Christmas, or, failing that, traveling to somewhere close by. Hopefully to places I haven't been yet. I just got back from a weekend in Prague, and although that was really a lot of fun, despite chilly December weather and a couple of snafus, I'd been to Prague twice before. The upside is I got to play tour guide!


I'd like to get to some of the out-of-the-way places before I leave Austria. I've been thinking of doing places I haven't been yet, at least for day-excursions, like Eisenstadt, Innsbruck (I've only ever been in the train station), Southern Tirol (Bozen, for example) and other places I've heard good things about. Well, I guess Eisenstadt really only has a palace...but that's good enough for me. I can get my kick living vicariously through the former empirical nobility, can't I? 

Life in America

Mom, Sam and I went to Door County this week... These photos are a reflection of a January day on Lake Michigan.

...and a Happy New Year!

Musical Bears in the Frankfurt Airport 

Happy New Year, everyone!

They say that the best thing about traveling is coming home - reconnecting with people you truly care about and love - and knowing that you have a place you belong, where you can kick off your shoes and recoup.

What I've gathered from my time home is a renewed appreciation for my family and friends. With both Sam and me home, we've got a full house, plus a visit from the ever-charming Callie to complete my holiday season. I am so lucky to be able to be surrounded by my favorite people in the world for a brief two weeks. Sam is planning on studying in Australia next year, which means Grandma will never be able to keep us straight - which one is in Austria and which one is in Australia? I'll have to let her know in a postcard I'm the one without the kangaroos.

One of the first things I did when I got into Green Bay, after Mom's beautiful but failed attempt to have a meal at the Serbian restaurant in Milwaukee -closed for Serbian Christmas the 26th - on the way up from Chicago (we ended up at Applebee's), was to watch the PBS Newshour, pig out on Christmas cookies (made by Sam) and crash from jet lag. The next day, I went out for Thai at the Bangkok Garden (Green Bay's sole Thai restaurant) where I had the red curry lunch special with one of my oldest friends from high school, Emma B., and her former roommate Brittany. It was nice, and I can honestly say it didn't seem like time had skipped a beat from this summer.

Emma, Jenni and me in B&N

Later, Emma and I went to Barnes and Noble, where I saw Zoe (the Yarn Whisperer :)) and Jennifer, Emma's BFF and another high school friend, currently doing PhD work in Texas and, like me, in town for the holidays.

The next day, we picked up Callie in Wausau.

For New Year's Eve, my parents' friends Nancy and Henning came over and we had a great time just chatting and enjoying each others' company.

portrait of Mozart on Kugel

It is here that Callie decided to take a here-to-fore unexpressed interest in Mozart. Perhaps it was the Mozart Kugeln I brought back from Austria (absolutely delicious chocolate-covered marzipan balls - probably my favorite candy), maybe it was the champagne going to her head. But suddenly, she turns to me and says, "Isn't Mozart cute?" Or similar. Out of all of the classical composers, she decides, he is the best looking, which leads us to do Google photo search of all of the classical composers we can think of.

Untouched, "accepted" portrait of Mozart

Now, granted, just by looking at these two portraits, you can tell there's a bit of false advertising here (most likely to sell more Kugeln). The idealized portrait of Mozart prompted Callie's newfound rapture over 18th century composers - their portraits, at least. And, well, I don't blame her. The guy on the Kugel (1) is pretty cute, even if he never existed. And the real Mozart (2) is, unfortunately, a disappointing, less attractive version (even if this is inconsequential because he died a couple of centuries ago, it definitely merits comparison a la the Man Scale). I'd give exhibit (1) a 7 or 8 the 10-point scale Callie and I devised senior year (and then put on our dorm room door in Ormsby), and exhibit (2) a 4 or 5 (sorry, Mozart). I guess that goes to prove, marketing is king - and "sex" sells (let's not think about that one too hard). I wonder where Mozart would rank on the list of celebrities who make more dead than alive? Or, is his image no longer under copyright privilege? Well, anyway...Mozart was still a genius and nerdy crushes are nothing new in this crowd.

It is with anticipation and joy I welcome in the new year. I have no guaranteed plans for 2011, but my hope is that it will be good. Another year on God's green earth? Yes. Better than 2010? Maybe. An opportunity for new and exciting adventures? Obviously. Here's to another year!

Frohes Fest!

Christmas time is here at last! My flight home leaves tonight...But, by this time tomorrow, I will be in Chicago...or on my way back to Green Bay! And that's exciting. Too bad I'm missing "real" Christmas at home. But, I have not missed Christmas in Austria, even though I am traveling on the 25th.

It should be noted for those Americans reading this blog that in Austria (and other parts of Europe, of course) that Christmas is not celebrated on the 25th, like we are used to, but on the 24th.

Last year's X-mas tree in WI

My personal theory is that the midnight mass on the 24th (so, the beginning of the 25th) was such an important part of the celebration that, when people stopped wanting to stay up until midnight for mass, they just moved it up to an earlier time on the 24th  - but gifts are opened on the 24th as well. And the Christkind (actually an angel, not the newborn baby Jesus) brings the presents, sort of like Santa Claus, but the kids just leave the room for 15 minutes and come back and there are miraculously presents sitting under the tree. Personally, I think it's a lot easier on the parents to just make the kids go to bed and wait until morning - if you're naughty and sneak out of bed, you break the deal anyway...

Sometimes December 25th is a day to visit family in Austria. Other times, they just don't do anything. And on the 26th (St. Stephen's Day), they go back to church. St. Stephen was a very important saint in Austria.

So, what did I do on Christmas Eve - considering I'm still Amstetten until this evening? I did a little channel surfing, and discovered The Last Unicorn (dubbed into German, of course) was playing on RTL. Very Christmas-y, if you ask me.

The Last Unicorn was my absolute favorite cartoon when I was little. The last time I saw it was as a college Freshman when I brought it back to the dorm from the Appleton Public Library and tortured my friends with it. Totally worth it. Although, I did realize how child inappropriate this film is. Lots of cartoon nudity and heavy subjects. But it is still awesome. In a cornball Peter S. Beagle fantasy way. The German version was totally better, too. Basically, I can't watch American movies in Germany/Austria because they are always dubbed, and it pisses me off when the lips and the voice of the actors do not sync. I have no fear of that in cartoons, however. The German versions of cartoons are actually better. The Simpsons, anyone?


After The Last Unicorn, I went to midnight mass (actually at 11 - wimps) and, this, too, seemed improved by being in Austria. First, the church itself is old and really cool. Second, since I am unfamiliar with the Apostle's Creed, the Lord's Prayer, etc., in German, trying to follow the mass kept me on my toes. Third, the music is better. It's not this dopey new wave Christian Youth stuff, but real music, but Haydn and Handel and Mozart and other composers.

Considering this, my early New Year's resolution is to go to church more - in Austria. A) It is a great way to pick up some German vocab. B) It might be an OK way to meet people. C) I joined the church choir, and must admit, I have not actually shown up to mass to sing with them (but I do go to the practices on Monday nights). After half the choir and two teachers at school asking me why I don't go to mass and sing with the choir, I realized that church choirs sing at church. And as a member, I am expected to do the same. My bad.


One question: if God knows everything, can he tell when I'm being facetious?

Cookie Time

Today I broke down and bought a cookie sheet at the local NKD.

What is it about chocolate chip cookies that makes them SOOOOOOOOOOOO fascinating? Perhaps it is their American origins...the uniquely American cookie. The All-American Toll House. Anyway, I have been progressively feeling this homesickness thing. I cannot attribute it to anything specific, but I think the combination of small town life (where I still don't really know a lot of people) and the fact that I lived at home last year (as opposed to living at Lawrence - the transition from dorm to single living was easier my first time abroad, I think) is making my separation angst more...severe.

Also, seeing as it is Christmastime, my thought is that I could contribute a little treat to the classroom. A double whammy: Christmas treat mixed with Americana - and why not? I like brining treats into class - it breaks up the monotony. So, not only have I decided to make chocolate chip cookies, I have decided to make 200+ chocolate chip cookies for my many students. 

You may be wondering why I chose chocolate chip cookies? They are not particularly Christmas-y. Yes. But they are easy cookies - you don't have to roll them, the recipe is easy to double (triple and quadruple, too) and I've made them so much, I have no fear of baking them with metric measurements and Austrian ingredients. Plus the whole aforementioned symbol of America that this cookie stands for.

If you don't believe me, all the Europeans I know call them "American cookies"  - they even sell them in the grocery store as such! But, truly, there is nothing like a home-baked chocolate chip cookie. In my opinion.