Ohrschluck

Another note on Austrian pronunciation: do you know what an Ohrschluck is? How about an Arschloch? In Austria, they're the same thing: an asshole.

At one point in my meanderings around Vienna this year, I somehow made it to Westbahnhof U-Bahn station at the rush hour, to spot a young man with a backpack run out of the southbound U-3 train and headlong into an older man using a cane. This older man proclaimed, in a dignified and quiet manner, the Viennese pronunciation of a common German-language vulgarity, which I took to mean "ear drink" quite literally.

"How quaint!" I thought. "How remarkable. I wonder what Ohrschluck could mean?"

It was not until I got home, and - in vain - tried to look up this "colloquialism" to realize that the stately, cane-wielding gentleman simply elongated his "a's" and his "o's" to the point of incomprehension (for a non-Austrian). I should have guessed!

Don't You Have Any Standards?

It has come to my attention, being a German student in Austria, the the language changes when you cross the border - it can actually change from town to town in the mountainous regions - Austrian German is distinct from Germany German, and not just in the accent or slang terms. Similar to British English and American English (though the differences are not quite so dramatic), each country has its own language standard.  This means that Austrian Standard German differs from Germany Standard German in pronunciation, spelling and vocabulary, and to some degree grammar. Though I've heard one is older than the other (and I must admit Austrian German seems to me to use more old-fashioned terms), I think they're about equal in that regard.

The German language is overseen by a governing body, similar to the French language Académie (but not as strict). Konrad Duden was the first German grammarian to write down the rules of the language in the Duden Handbook in 1880 - still the dictionary of choice for many. Because of this very late standardization, there are lots and lots of regional differences in the German language.

Here are some notable ones I've picked up on:

Austrian                                                             German                                                  English

Aula                                                    Hörsaal                                                 auditorium
Bücherei                                              Bibliothek                                             library
Diele                                                   Vorzimmer                                            hallway

Eierspeisen                                          Rühreier                                                scrambled eggs

Erdapfel                                              Kartoffel                                                potato

Faschiertes                                          Hackfleisch                                           ground beef

Fisolen                                                Gartenböhnen                                       green beans

Frühjahr                                              Frühling                                                spring

Fußgeher                                             Fußgänger                                            pedestrian

Heuer                                                  dieses Jahr                                            this year

Jänner                                                  Januar                                                  January

Karfiol                                                 Blumenkohl                                          cauliflower

Kasten                                                 Schrank                                               wardrobe

Kiste                                                    Kasten                                                 box

Kohlsprossen                                       Rosenkohl                                            Brussels sprouts

Kren                                                    Meerrettisch                                         horseradish

Marillien                                               Aprikosen                                            apricots

Melanzani                                            Aubergine                                             eggplant

Paradeiser                                           Tomate                                                 tomato

Palatschinken                                      Pfannkuchen                                          pancakes

Rauchfang                                           Schornstein                                           chimney

 Schafblättern                                      Windpocken                                         chicken pox

Schale                                                 Schüssel                                                bowl

Schlagobers                                         Schlagsahne                                          whipped cream

Semmel                                                Brötchen                                               bun/hard roll

Sessel                                                  Stuhl                                                      chair

Stiege                                                  Treppe                                                   stairs

Topfen                                                Quark                                                    cream cheese

Any important words I've left out? Please post in the comments!

Famous Austrians XII: Rainer Maria Rilke

Rilke was born in Prague in 1875 (while it was still part of Austria-Hungary) and grew up there with an unsuccessful father and a terribly unhappy mother who, mourning the death of Rilke's baby sister, dressed him in girl's clothing as a child, the start of his depressive, repressive and Freudian outlook on life.

In fact, in 1897, he met and fell in love with Lou Andreas-Salome, who had studied psychoanalysis with Freud, and the two of them shared an intellectual bond and traveled together extensively, most importantly to Russia in 1899, where Rilke met Leo Tolstoy. Unfortunately, Lou was already married, so Rilke had to settle for Clara Westhoff, a sculptor he met on an artist's retreat in 1900.

In 1902, he moved to Paris to work with Rodin, and ended up meeting Cezanne, continuing to work with both artists. He was quite prolific in Paris, writing in French as well as German, and stayed there until 1910 when he decided to travel again, to Spain, Trieste, and then to Germany. in 1914, World War I broke out and Rilke was stuck. He lived in Munich until he was called up in 1916 and attended basic training in Vienna. He used his connections in high places to skip out later that year.

Rilke moved to Switzerland in 1919 and finished his lyrical poems. He fell ill in 1923, and was diagnosed with leukemia shortly before his death in 1926. For some reason, roses and mythology have often played large parts in Rilke's work.

Here (in German) and here (in English) you can read the Dunio Elegien, one of his most famous works.

Famous Austrians VI: Felix Salten

Felix Salten is less famous than his work of fiction, Bambi, a Life in the Woods.

Yes, the Disney movie Bambi is actually originally Austrian! Who'd a thunk?

Salten was born in Budapest in 1869 to a Jewish family, but moved soon after with his family to Vienna. At the turn of the 20th century, he was involved in the Young Vienna movement (Jung Wien, promoting art noveau ventures) and various other artistic endeavors. He made his living as a theater critic, but wrote and published plenty of original poems, plays and stories.

Perhaps this comes as no surprise to those who know how much Austrians love nature and the natural world. Bambi: eine Lebensgeschichte aus dem Wald is similar to the movie in many ways, excepting that Bambi is a roe deer in the Austrian version, but a white-tailed deer in the American version (the difference in species being the difference in continents). The novel also goes into much more detail about Bambi's life, following him into old age, having him philosophize about life, death and the mysteries of the universe. The novel was also meant for an adult audience, and after translation became a huge book club success in the United States in the 1930s. Hitler believed the story was an allegory for the treatment of Jews in Nazi Germany (and occupied Austria) and banned the book in 1936.

While in exile in Switzerland during the Nazi occupation, Salten wrote a sequel, Bambi's Children. He also sold the rights to Disney at this time. The film version came out in 1942. According to legend, Disney originally wanted to create a live-action version, but discovering it would be too difficult to film deer (um, duh?) he opted for a cartoon feature. Bambi: eine Lebensgeschichte aus dem Wald is also considered one of the first environmental novels. Environmentalists can disagree all they want; the Bambi Effect has turned plenty of people into vegetarians.

Camp Happenings

It's a bit difficult to get online, as I think I've mentioned, with the kids around, because I'm basically on from the time they get up until they get to bed. But, finally, I'm getting around to uploading some of the photos I took and recounting some of the happenings at summer camp.

Hundertwasser statue in Zell am See

On my day off, I went to Zell am See, which is very beautiful and very touristy. I've been getting pangs of nostalgia here, which is curious as I've never been to this part of Austria before. I think my brain is compartmentalizing my new experiences into spots it previously reserved for summers of my childhood, which is where I'm getting this "deja vu."

My childhood summers often consisted of going to Door County (nature + tourist trap shops) and visiting my grandparents (who owned a farm just outside a resort town in Minnesota). The main difference I suppose is the geography (more mountains), the type of tourist frequenting the tourist trap (Arabs as opposed to Chicagoans) and the culture of the locals (Austrian as opposed to Norwegian-Minnesotan). You can see where my brain would draw similarities, I hope?

Guys in Trachten playing

traditional Alpine instruments 

Overall, I've really enjoyed my time at camp. It was hectic at first, draining, but now I feel like I've finally got into the swing of things and now I have to leave?! 

I expected certain things, which did not happen. Certain things just happened, which I was glad about, upset about, and just went with eventually. Some of the things working at a summer camp has taught me: be punctual; be flexible; start your day with a smile. And if you can't, fake it.

The things the kids loved to do sort of surprised me, not necessarily being the things I'd love to do at summer camp. The experience sort of made me revert to middle school...to my surprise at first. I kind of hated middle school as a big nerd with no friends. But the majority of the kids at camp were between 13-14 and that's where they'd be at. Middle school, I mean. Not nerds with no friends. Well, some of them to be fair. But most of the kids (seeing as they applied to a sports camp) are jocks, or at least sporty types. Some are easy-going, some are pampered brats; some have traveled around the world, some had never left their home country before 2 weeks ago. Almost all of the kids loved the pool (check) but hated going to the lake (what?!?). They liked biking, kayaking and tubing (they should!) but hated hiking. I came to the conclusion that they either tolerated nature, or liked it, but in moderation. Any strenuous exercise that was not 1) a game or 2) confined to a man-made structure was a no-go. Whatever. They'll learn.

snow in July

kids at the mountain hut

 The one thing the kids LOVE across the board, though, is Secret Friends, which is basically like leaving an anonymous note to someone you like, someone who did something nice for you, etc., to make them feel good/know your feelings/whatever. They are read during the all camp meeting by the counselors and then the note is given to the camper to keep. Sometimes there's dress-up involved. Sometimes there are meaner notes which need to be disposed of (positive attitudes = secret friends). I've gotten a few...and I keep them. My favorite was: "Vanessa, you're awesome! You care about us so much!!" Because I do.

waiting for Secret Friends

Summer Camp Update: Halfway into the Second Session

Last weekend, I said goodbye to the first round of campers at the Munich airport on Saturday and said hello to the new round on Sunday. The dynamic is completely different already. These kids seem more chilled out and relaxed, although I've already got a bit of homesickness cropping up.

I was assigned to the youngest kids (10-12). They are designated by color groups: yellow, red, or blue. I've had some experience with this age group, but not as much as with teenagers and high schoolers. I like the age group well enough, and I've had some less than stellar experiences with the 13-14 year old age range. Teenagers can be tough critics and quite...irresolute? Unsympathetic? Egocentric? Well, I won't sling mud. But seriously, it's a stage we all go through.

Sigmund Thun Klamm (gorge)

The camp is situated right in the mountains - really a paradise! Here are some photos: 

view from my room at camp

Here are some pictures from the Counselor Hunt in Zell am See. The game is basically a mega game of hide-and-seek where the campers look for the counselors dressed in ridiculous costumes and collect signatures to prove they found them. Below? Some of my colleagues!

getting ready for the Counselor Hunt in Zell

the kids look for the counselors in costumes

The kids have been doing some remarkable things: climbing the Krimml Wasserfall (the largest waterfall in Austria). tramping through the Hohe Tauern National Park, swimming in beautiful glacial lakes, climbing Alpine mountains, hiking to mountain huts, playing sports and doing camp-type activities like egg drops, costume contests, arts and crafts (I led a papier-mâché session last week) and all sorts of other wonderful things. It's been quite rainy since the second set came, which is unfortunate because it limits the amount of time the kids can spend in the great outdoors. I feel a bit cooped up myself, seeing as I have to teach German every morning Monday through Friday. But, c'est la vie.

kids in gondola

view from our gondola to the mountain hut

Summer Camp Austria: the Beginning

Starting on the 26th of July, I have been hired to teach German at an international sleep away summer camp in Zell am See. After a week of orientation with all of the staff members, the campers arrived yesterday. It's been pretty hectic getting all of the kids situated and dealing with parents, regulations, etc. I'm a bit afraid the kids are going to be spoiled brats from what I've heard about the socioeconomic standing of some of them...

The kids come from all over, but mostly Russia, the Middle East, Switzerland and other parts of Europe. I was on airport duty picking up the kids from Munich, which was incredibly stressful. I never realized how hard it can be to try to wrangle 60+ kids around an airport!!

All of my co-workers seem pretty cool, though. I met two on the train ride from Salzburg to Zell am See and the rest when I got to the camp. They've traveled all over the place, and many of them are from New Zeeland, though there are also a number of Americans, a couple of Canadians, an Australian, and various Europeans. Our orientation was a bit less hands-on than I had imagined, but I guess it did the trick.

I will stop here, being absolutely pooped. Hopefully more news will pop up soon...and pictures, too!

Plötzlich Shakespeare

Cute and enjoyable, "Suddenly Shakespeare" is another novel by David Safier - the author of Mieses Karma.

This time, however, the female protagonist Rosa finds herself, thanks to a past-life regression session with a carnival stunt man, all of a sudden living at the end of the 16th century: in the body of William Shakespeare! The gist is that Rosa once lived as Shakespeare, the Bard, the greatest English language writer the world has ever seen (according to popular opinion). Her quest is to find the meaning of true love. And she does find it - very touching. Very sentimental (but also quite funny). I found the story trite at times, but also, considering the audience, fun and and enjoyable read. Very similar to Mieses Karma, but with the past life regression trick.

However, I must comment on one big gaping error in the plot: Shakespeare's greatest love ("soul mate") was supposed to be his wife, Anne Hathaway, who has died in the novel. In reality, Anne Hathaway survived her husband - although she was eight years his senior - and was bequeathed his "second best bed" in his will. Takt that as you wish. Other historical details (I am particularly picky when it comes to historical, or even "historical" novels) are well documented enough - for example, the Earl of Essex's close relationship with Queen Elizabeth I, Shakespeare's best friend Kempe...

According to certain para-psychologists (also known as occultists) would argue against certain aspects of reincarnation present in Safier's novels. I, however, do not have the knowledge base nor the gumption to truly attest one way or another for or against reincarnation - aside from my own opinions, which are more or less
as informed as I am in general. Thus, I will skip that debate (I know what's good for me).

Again, this was a novel written in German (like Mieses Karma) and recommended to my by a student, who said that these novels convinced her of the truth of reincarnation. And perhaps other things helped along the way? Such as personal experiences, etc.? I can only guess.

A funny side note: it seems that Canadians are particularly fascinated with reincarnation, and particularly believing that they are reincarnations of certain famous people (don't as me why) including the woman who believes she was once Alexander the Great, and the woman who more recently declared she was the reincarnation of Marilyn Monroe. Edgar Cayce also had something to say on the subject. In any case, in any incarnation, we are us - and we make of our lives what we deem necessary, and good. We do not - and cannot - live in the past. Fame, after all, is still a four letter word.

Mieses Karma

This novel, translated into English as Bad Karma, was recommended to me by one of my students. The plot, roughly, is about Kim Lange, a TV talk show moderator in Berlin, who is hit and killed by a rogue satellite and reincarnated into an ant - because she was really mean to other people. Throughout the novel, she tries to become reunited with her family, her husband and young daughter, and gather good karma to eventually be reincarnated into a person. Or reach Nirvana. Whichever.

I would describe the novel as Bridget Jones' Diary meets a primer on Buddhist philosophy -- but without a lot of actual "philosophy" attached. It's mostly a chick-lit driven plot. Reading how Kim is still obsessed with this man she had an affair with right before her death basically explains how she was reincarnated into a bug. I enjoy the novel, and found it an entertaining read, but I wouldn't put much weight into the description of reincarnation. It doesn't actually follow any spiritual tradition...unfortunately. And it's no Cloud Atlas, another novel dealing with reincarnation on, I think, a more metaphysical and philosophical level.

I can say with conviction, however, that I would read more David Safier (his other two novels, Jesus lebt mich and Plötzlich Shakespeare also deal with reincarnation and past life regressions) over most other chick-lit novels, including the English-language writers Meg Cabot, Sophie Kinsella and Laura Weisberger. And, yes, although I hate to admit it, I've read them all, Shopaholic included. Everyone likes a little trash and escapism every once in a while, and if you say you don't, you either need to relax or check your ego.

The message of Mieses Karma is a great one. Any pop-fiction dealing with reincarnation on a level where the average person can understand is bound to not only bring the issue of spirituality and reincarnation into the mainstream, but also to allow people to think about life after death in a way that maybe they hadn't before. To paraphrase this review: I will never step on another ant as long as I live. 

Que Sera, sera*; or, a Few of My Favorite Things** about Austria

"The best thing about the future is that it comes one day at a time."
 - Abraham Lincoln

Yes, it's that time again - time to freak out about where my life is going. It's become one of my special talents, and now I'd like to share it with you. Or, at least, share the news I've got. Next year, I will be staying in Austria, as the Fulbright Commission has renewed my contract. In Austria, you are allowed to ask for an extension of your teaching assistantship (other countries only allow one year per Fulbright grant), and I have done just that. For the time being, it looks like I will be in Amstetten again next year. In the meantime, this summer I will be working at a camp in Zell am See, which is near Salzburg.

This is both an exiting thing and a thing that makes me nervous. First, it is good, because I will be able to strengthen relationships I have made here, most importantly with my schools, and also with the friends I have made and even with the landscape itself. Amstetten doesn't lend itself to poetic rhapsodizing exactly, but I have enjoyed my time here, and, as my mother tells me, traveling to the big city of Vienna for the weekend is a definite improvement over traveling to the "big city" of Sioux Falls for the weekend, which is what she did at my age (her first teaching job was in a town of 1000 people in western Minnesota). What makes me nervous is that after this year I don't know what I'll be doing. I will be 25 years old at the end of next school year - which seemed impossibly old to me when I graduated from high school, and in some ways still seems old to me.

I had hoped while in Austria to improve my German. Although I have learned many things about Austria, Austrians and Austrian culture, I don't think I can speak German any better than I could when I got here. I suppose I could come to one of these conclusions: a) I need a formal setting to learn anything, b) I only think I need a formal setting to learn anything, which is actually keeping me from learning anything, c) I will never truly get the hang of Austrian German and - a nod to the American stereotype - I don't need to because everyone speaks English here anyway, or d) another year is all I need to perfect my German.

Having now spent the past seven months here in Austria, I'd like to take the time to consider my experiences, and prepare myself for the months ahead, to hopefully continue enjoying Austria, and the things it has to offer.

Here is a list I've thought about - and compiled, obviously, - which expresses what I like about Austria:

1. The Countryside: on my daily walk around Amstetten, most recently since the weather has become nicer, I've had the chance to see some beautiful scenery - the river Ybbs, wildlife on the Nautrerlebnispfad (sometimes just squirrels and ducks, if they count). Farm fields within the city limits and I mean livestock, too! Sheep AND cows. On my walk I often see a cow and her calf out to pasture less than a kilometer from the hospital. Scoff if you'd like, but I have never in my life see something like this, not even in Wisconsin! Livestock within the city limits simply doesn't happen (health codes and all)...

2. Fresh food. Like much of the rest of Europe, Austria offers many delicious options for fresh, local produce, honey and dairy products (that's the benefit of having cows in the middle of town, perhaps?) and although many basic products are more expensive than they would be in the USA, organic products are not only more abundant in Austria, but also less expensive than organic products in the USA. And, the price difference between organic and regular products in Austria is smaller than in the USA (for example, the difference between regular milk and organic milk per liter is 5 cents, rather than 20 cents, i.e. a gallon of regular fresh milk in Austria is about $5.26; a gallon of fresh organic milk is roughly $5.55...to compare averages, a gallon of fresh regular milk in the USA is about $3.79; a gallon of fresh organic milk is just over $6).

3. Having pride in one's work, and the abundance of handmade articles, hobbies devoted to do-it-yourself, etc. I find it quite admirable that so many Austrians knit, sew their own clothing, garden - and produce the food they eat by themselves - and build their own houses. Also, the importance of family in Austria. I was surprised to discover how many of my students live with their grandparents. That is, in the same house, three and sometimes four generations under one roof! They reassured me that it's often the case to have two to three households in one house, though. Mom and Dad will live on the bottom floor while Grandma and Grandpa live on top. Everyone does their own thing, but gets together for dinner, church, and so forth. When the houses get too small to hold everyone, they build additions on! This is something that happened in America during the pioneer days, but I doubt whether most Americans would willingly live in their parents' homes for extended periods of time after they got married...like, for the rest of their lives. Owning one's own home, car, etc., buying the "best" and "newest" and being able to flaunt each of these things to your neighbor is something Americans not only enjoy doing, they also sort of expect this, not as a privilege, but as a right of passage. Independence can be a wonderful thing, but it can also be isolating and stressful, and unnecessarily so.

4. The Mountains. Although I live in the Alpenvorland and not the actual Alpine region, there are a few hills in Amstetten. Since going to the actual Alps on the school ski trip, and discovering how incredibly breathtaking they are, I've decided that I really, really love mountainous areas. I like them so much that I would probably choose to live in a mountainous landscape over many other landscapes. One of the reasons I look forward to a second year in Austria is to get out into the Alps more, something I'll be able to do quite easily this summer when I work in Zell am See.

5. Being able to speak German every day, of course! Although, I do speak a lot more English than I am accustomed to doing in a foreign (non-English speaking) country. And more than I really should, especially outside of class. But sometimes I feel like my teacher personality comes out, and to help the students improve their English, I can't help but keep my German to myself. But then again, maybe this is just and excuse.

As for next year, it will be in many respects the continuation of this year. Less abrupt and defined than my year abroad, which saw me go to Germany and France. Here, I find nothing hemming me in (such as a looming bachelor's degree), or any expectation beyond what I expect of myself. Of course, two years of "bumming around Europe" is probably enough for me before I enter the so-called "real world" (by the way, I would consider both terms cliche, and culpable in undermining the spirit of youth and discovery - unless you are literally doing nothing. I, thank God, am doing something, rather than nothing, in Europe).

Who knows what the future will hold? I guess I'll just have to take it one day at a time.


*Song made famous by Doris Day, who sang it in Hitchcock's The Man Who Knew Too Much
**Song made famous by Julie Andrews, who sung it in every Austrian's favorite***, The Sound of Music
***Just kidding! Ironically, most Austrians I have talked to do not actually like, or have never seen, The Sound of Music

Memoiren eines mittelmäßigen Schülers

A book loaned to me by one of the teachers at the HAK, Memoiren eines mittelmäßigen Schülers (tr: Memoirs of an Average Student), is a semi-autobiographical and historical journey by German writer Alexander Spoerl.

I enjoyed the book very much. The style is easy to get into. The writing is simple and informative - almost conversational. The story begins as Jakob van Tast waits in the hospital for his son to be born. The time is late 40's or early 50's. Jakob, with nothing else to do, returns to his own childhood within the narrative. This story takes us from a little boy behaving badly to a young man (uninterested, not finding his niche) desiring to be free of school, to a young man working as an apprentice in Berlin, to a young man drafted into Hitler's army. Later, through each of these adventures, and frames of mind, we come to recognize the whole man who has formed from these fragments of persona. At the end, Jakob not only discovers the birth of his daughter (an ironic view of men and their perception of their offspring as an extension of themselves?) but reunites with (i.e. sees) an old teacher of his from the Gymnasium, who has completely forgotten who he is. Only "average" students are rarely remembered by teachers, sorry to say. We remember the excellent ones and the terrible ones - with behavior problems - most of all, especially after 20, 30 or 40 years...

I loved the irony. I loved the honesty. I loved that Spoerl made no bones about Hitler, the Third Reich and all that bullshit in 1950, no less, right after the war! Jakob falls in love with a Jewish girl, has an affair with the wife of an officer while in the army...things that make for a juicy story. And yet, that's not the point. Jakob's growth as a human being is of importance, not the juicy details of plot, but his existential qualities. It reminded me of Camus. Without all of that freaky-weird imagery.