Cafe Kultur

The Kaffeehaus is a particular Viennese tradition that locals and tourists - despite their differences - can both get behind. I have a review of cafes in Vienna on this page.

Since the Turks left behind bags of coffee beans after the Siege of Vienna in 1529, coffee has become an integral part of the Viennese lifestyle, the Austrian Way, if you will - also cakes to go with the coffee. What Austrian doesn't like a good Jause - Kaffeepause ?

Here is a list of coffee drinks and cakes you would typically find in a Viennese cafe - by no means an exhaustive list (I did try to be thorough) - I hope you find it informative.  I've included my opinion to keep things interesting. As my mother always says, there's no accounting for taste. I'd say that rings doubly true for desserts!

Coffee Drinks in Vienna
1. Amadeus - espresso with Mozart liqueur (marzipan flavored) and whipped cream
2. Biedermeier - espresso with whipped cream and apricot liqueur
3. Einspänner - espresso with cream
4. Eiskaffee - iced coffee with lots of milk and sugar; sometimes coffee with ice cream
5. Grosser Brauner - large espresso
6. Kleiner Brauner - small espresso
7. Maria Theresia - espresso with whipped cream and orange liqueur

8. Melange - half espresso, half milk with whipped cream; sometimes served like a Cappuccino

9. Mokka - another name for a Kleiner Brauner

10. Pharisäer - large espresso with rum and whipped cream; also called a Fiaker

11. Verlängerter - espresso in a large cup, topped off with hot water; sometimes called an Americano

Viennese Cakes
1. Apfelstrudel - apple strudel; basically like apple pie, it's considered by some the national dish of Austria.
2. Baumkuchen - sort of like a funnel cake; baked on a spit, and marketed at the Naschmarkt as "typically Hungarian."
3. Biedermeier Torte - chocolate cake with whipped cream, cherries and apricot jam.
4. Esterhazytorte - layered almond-flavored meringue and butter cream frosting cake; about 1/2 cake, 1/2 frosting.
5. Gugelhupf - basically a bundt cake; often marbled, but it comes in many flavors; very moist for an Austrian cake.
6. Himbeer Torte - white cake with a gelée of raspberry preserves on top; sometimes also with whipped cream or butter cream frosting.
7. Kaiserschmarrn - crepes which are cut up in the pan, served with nuts, raisins soaked in rum, and a fruit sauce (apple, lingonberry, Powidl) and often served as a main meal, though it is sweet.
8. Krapfen - basically a jelly doughnut filled with apricot jam. In Poland, they are called pączki and made with rose hip jam (and they're much better).
9. Linzer Torte - almond and hazelnut cake with red current jam on top, and (often) a meringue lattice crust (my personal favorite).
10. Marillenkuchen - apricot cake; sheet cake with apricots baked on top; any fruit can be substituted (see Zwetchkenkuchen).
11. Punschkrapfen - filled cake like a petit four with nougat and apricot, and a punch (tutti-frutti?) flavored icing. (I don't like these at all.)
12. Sachertorte - chocolate layer cake with apricot jam and a chocolate glacé icing. Caveat emptor: a slice of Sacehrtorte at the Sacher Hotel is dry, nine times out of ten.
13. Stollen - served around Christmas; basically a fruit cake; not very sweet, but good with coffee.
14. Topfenstrudel - a cream cheese version of the apple strudel; I prefer apple.
15. Zwetschkenkuchen - plum cake, known as Pflaumenkuchen in Germany; sheet cake with plums baked on top (my second favorite).

Waldviertel Pur

I really need to start bringing my camera with me on my walks around Vienna.

This is sort of a rehashing of an earlier post where I said the same thing, but, it still holds true.

On the 31st of August, I wandered around on my usual route and, walking through the Burggarten, stumbled upon all of these tents in the nearby Heldenplatz. Well, upon taking a closer look, I realized it was Waldviertel Pur, which is basically a big fat tourism promotion for the Austrian Waldviertel, which is close enough to Vienna that it makes sense they would try to lure city folk with the joys of "country living" such as wooden carvings, handmade baskets, a hundred different types of cured meat, and a thousand different types of cheeses.

There was also a band (don't know if they come from the Waldviertel) and brochures on hiking and other outdoor activities. But the piece de resistance was all of the food you could sample, or buy to take home. I've realized that most of these "event" situations are more or less about eating food and drinking alcohol. Plenty of delicacies to choose from: Wine, beer, and Sturm.

Yes, they have officially started selling Sturm for the season! Sturm, for those unfamiliar with the Austrian wine-making process, is wine in its very first fermentation of the year. It's a lot like grape cider, with the possibility of as much alcohol content as the wine it will become, but tastes just like juice, so you don't feel like you're drinking wine. Thus the name, "storm," which refers most undoubtedly to the hangover you get the next day...like a hurricane in your head. However, since it is only produced for a few short weeks, typically September through October each year, it is a rarity and an indulgence.

The drink, known as "must" in English, appears in other wine-making cultures. But, I ask you, where else but in Vienna would you find sturm sold in such disparate places as: 1) a traditional Kaffeehaus, 2) a ritzy restaurant in the Museums Quartier, 3) a street festival, and 4) an Aldi (Austrian = Hofer)? If you have an idea, let me know.

Kochprüfung, or the Perks of Being a Native English Speaker

This past Monday, I was invited to be a guest at one of my student's cooking exams at the HLW.


Short for Höhere Lehranstalt für wirstschafltiche Berufe (Higher School of Commercial Occupations), it used to be known...maybe 10 to 15 years ago...as the girls' school. More pejoratively put, the Knödel Akademie (Dumpling Academy) because the girls learned cooking, cleaning, hotel management, etc. for work in tourism-related jobs. Or how to be a cleaning lady or cook. Or just how to be a good Hausfrau. 


The boys, of course, went to the Gymnasium or the HAK - Handlesakademie (business academy), but these days, in our enlightened times, boys and girls are allowed to choose wherever they want to go to school. The Gymnasium is from ages 10-19, and is more or less an academic track that would include American middle school and high school, but is more rigorous: think AP (Advanced Placement) or IB (International Baccalaureate) classes, but without the "regular" option. The HLW has academic classes - but not as rigorous - and the students learn cooking (no more cleaning, thank God) and have either a foreign language concentration, a nutrition concentration, or a business management concentration. The HAK also has academic classes, but students also learn accounting, business management, leadership skills, and so forth. The HLW and HAK are meant to get students ready for a) a job right after graduation in their chosen field or b) university studies. So, these schools are more like high school + associates degree. This actually makes it easier for graduates of these schools to find a job abroad, especially the USA, considering they are basically a year ahead of anyone their age graduating from an American high school...something I should never have mentioned in class, because now they all want me to get them "in" to the USA - or at least they ask me endless questions about America.


On to the cooking exam! Each of the 4th year students at the HLW is supposed to do a cooking exam, a serving exam and an accounting exam as part of their diploma/graduation. In the fifth year, they then do language exams: German, French and English, with which they have the option of an oral or written exam. It's a great idea to split the exams between the two years, I think, because then the students aren't so stressed out they can't perform well. With the serving exam as well, they get the chance to do their exams in a foreign language, or just in German. 


That's where I come in - one of the girls in the 4A wanted to do her exam in English, so she invited me.


The table settings were chosen by each of the five girls doing their serving exams, and the food was prepared by each of their partners in the kitchen. We had a lovely aperitif (pear bellinis) and an appetizer, tomato bruchetta on olive ciabatta, before the servers came to introduce themselves. At the end of the meal, the cooks also introduced themselves. 


Being invited to the cooking exam is quite an honor in Amstetten. The mayor was at this one, as well as certain other dignitaries, local business people, and the former superintendent of schools for Lower Austria. Also, teachers and other community members are allowed to participate.


The menu: 

Schmankerteller aus der Region

(assorted regional specialties)

Karfiolcremesuppe mit Flambiertem Karottenconfit

(cream of cauliflower soup with flambéed carrot compote)

Pikant gefüllte Roulade von der Maishendlbrust

(spicy roast chicken breast)

Bärlauch-Eräpfeltaler

(fried potatoes with wild garlic)

Mostbirnpilzgröstl

(pear-mushroom ragout)

Dukatenbuchteln auf Vanillespiegel

 (yeast dumplings with vanilla custard)

Kaffeespezialitäten - Pharisäer

(coffee specialties - Irish coffee with rum and whipped cream)

A 2010 Riesling from the Weingut Stadt Krems was served with the meal. Everything was delicious and our server tried very hard to do everything bilingual. She got nervous and made a few mistakes, but I would give her and A for effort - knowing that she did something outside of her comfort zone, and put extra effort into her exam. Extra effort should always be rewarded.

One addenda: I felt very awkward at the meal because, although I made it very clear that I'm a vegetarian, I was still served chicken. Each of the five students cook and prepare the same menu (to keep it fair, I guess). And I understood this, and wanted to be nice about it, so I had a bit of the chicken, but pushed the rest around on my plate...which the person sitting next to me noticed. 

Oops. Austria is one of those countries where you are supposed to eat EVERYTHING on your plate, and to leave something behind is rude, and indicates that you don't like the food. Well, I was hoping to go unnoticed, but by that time, I didn't want to embarrass anyone, or become further embarrassed myself...by explaining dietary restrictions that hadn't seemed to bother me until then, right? I just said that I wasn't used to eating so much in one sitting (which I'm not - four courses is a lot) and told the students that it was very delicious. 

Which it was - especially the pear-mushroom ragout. And the wine! 

Genoa, or Pigging Out at Panifico and Other Such Stuff

statue of Columbus, famous son of Genoa

From one seaport to another: on our way from Venice to the Cinque Terre, Callie and I spent one night in Genoa waiting for Sarah's plane to get in from Poland. The difference between the two cities, Venice and Genoa, was quite obvious when we got off the train: Genoa is definitely more "working class" than Venice, though, this should be no surprise.

I'd been told that Genoa was not a particularly attractive city. One might even say ugly. And, well, to be honest, there are some grungy bits, like a street near our B&B Callie delighted in calling "Via Scuzzio"...but, all in all, beauty can be found in the city, and you don't need to look hard, either.

The Basilica of Genoa (Chiesa della Stanitssima Annunziata del Vastato):

The Palazzo Ducale (another Doge's Palace):

And the Port of Genoa:

Callie near the docks

We mostly just walked around Genoa, taking in the UNESCO World Heritage Site that is the Downtown (Strada Nuova/Via Garibaldi) and eating delicious food: trofie con pesto Genovese (pasta with Genoa's famous pesto), ravioli in salsa di noci (walnut sauce), foccacia up to your eyeballs, SUPERB white wine, and the pièce de résistance, rose-flavored gelato (a Ligurian specialty). We ate at Panifico, a little quasi-dive hidden in a cul-de-sac off of Via Garibaldi. The food was excellent, and only one of the wait staff could speak decent-enough English to communicate with us. That's when you know the food is going to be good. Plus, it was 1/2 as expensive as Venice, a welcome departure from what we had grown accustomed to in terms of the bill.


Also included, of course, in our stay were yummy cappuccinos and delicious baked goods. If we stayed in Genoa any longer, it's quite possible we would have had to buy bigger clothes :)

As it was, one night was good enough. We met Sarah at the train station without a hitch, and made our way to the Cinque Terre.

Caffe Florian, Venice

me with (unseeable) bell town in background

While in Venice, we partook in the Venetian cafe culture at the Caffe Florian on Piazza San Marco. Although a bit more than what we should have paid for a glass of wine (8 euro) and sandwich (12 euro), the cafe is one of the oldest coffee houses in the city (serving overpriced sandwiches since 1720) and was a great cultural experience, albeit one I only need to do once in a lifetime. We chose Caffe Florain for 1) name recognition (thanks, Rick Steves) and 2) for its live music. All of the cafes on St. Mark's Square have live bands in the evening, but Caffe Florian's band had a little something special. Perhaps it was the woman violinist? The accordion player?

Callie enjoying the music

Knowing that Venice caters to tourists almost as a natural process of the city's functions (it's hard to imagine Venice without tourists, actually), makes me rethink, in a way, my overall enjoyment of the city. It definitely felt too-good-to-be-true at times: like Disney World. Like there was no real life in the city, and no real inhabitants. Just pretty buildings and canals. Like we were visiting a museum for an extended weekend. And like we really mattered to the wait staff, hotel staff, etc., etc. as long as we could pay up in the end.

Venice, I have decided, beautiful though it is, is not for the faint of pocketbook. Three days was perfect. Anymore time spent there (and not in the company of some rich billionaire) would be too much for the average young traveler/twenty-something/recent college graduate/me.

Here is a video clip of the musicians at the Caffe Florian (a rendition of Oh, Susanna! for your listening pleasure):

They later played an extensive musical theater repertoire - after some drunk Russians left, who were celebrating a birthday and requesting Russian songs for over an hour. Fiddler on the Roof, CATS and Hello Dolly were discernible. I now wish I had saved my memory card space and camera battery for the rendition of "Memories" (where Miss Grizabella dies - yes, I have CATS memorized)...but this, for what it'w worth, is good enough. The cafe staff did not get upset, unlike the staff at La Scala, who abhor even the sight of a digital camera. That, however, is another story.

Salzburg

On Sunday, I accompanied the visiting Russian students and the 4th form to Salzburg for an exciting day of sightseeing. It was quite...interesting. Salzburg is a beauftiful city - gorgeous scenery, historical wonders, and a damn good Mozart Kugel. We also had fabulous weather (50s Farenheit in JANUARY?!? some people tell me this is normal for Austria because of some Mediterranean wind pattern...) Anyway, judge for yourself!

Frohes Fest!

Christmas time is here at last! My flight home leaves tonight...But, by this time tomorrow, I will be in Chicago...or on my way back to Green Bay! And that's exciting. Too bad I'm missing "real" Christmas at home. But, I have not missed Christmas in Austria, even though I am traveling on the 25th.

It should be noted for those Americans reading this blog that in Austria (and other parts of Europe, of course) that Christmas is not celebrated on the 25th, like we are used to, but on the 24th.

Last year's X-mas tree in WI

My personal theory is that the midnight mass on the 24th (so, the beginning of the 25th) was such an important part of the celebration that, when people stopped wanting to stay up until midnight for mass, they just moved it up to an earlier time on the 24th  - but gifts are opened on the 24th as well. And the Christkind (actually an angel, not the newborn baby Jesus) brings the presents, sort of like Santa Claus, but the kids just leave the room for 15 minutes and come back and there are miraculously presents sitting under the tree. Personally, I think it's a lot easier on the parents to just make the kids go to bed and wait until morning - if you're naughty and sneak out of bed, you break the deal anyway...

Sometimes December 25th is a day to visit family in Austria. Other times, they just don't do anything. And on the 26th (St. Stephen's Day), they go back to church. St. Stephen was a very important saint in Austria.

So, what did I do on Christmas Eve - considering I'm still Amstetten until this evening? I did a little channel surfing, and discovered The Last Unicorn (dubbed into German, of course) was playing on RTL. Very Christmas-y, if you ask me.

The Last Unicorn was my absolute favorite cartoon when I was little. The last time I saw it was as a college Freshman when I brought it back to the dorm from the Appleton Public Library and tortured my friends with it. Totally worth it. Although, I did realize how child inappropriate this film is. Lots of cartoon nudity and heavy subjects. But it is still awesome. In a cornball Peter S. Beagle fantasy way. The German version was totally better, too. Basically, I can't watch American movies in Germany/Austria because they are always dubbed, and it pisses me off when the lips and the voice of the actors do not sync. I have no fear of that in cartoons, however. The German versions of cartoons are actually better. The Simpsons, anyone?


After The Last Unicorn, I went to midnight mass (actually at 11 - wimps) and, this, too, seemed improved by being in Austria. First, the church itself is old and really cool. Second, since I am unfamiliar with the Apostle's Creed, the Lord's Prayer, etc., in German, trying to follow the mass kept me on my toes. Third, the music is better. It's not this dopey new wave Christian Youth stuff, but real music, but Haydn and Handel and Mozart and other composers.

Considering this, my early New Year's resolution is to go to church more - in Austria. A) It is a great way to pick up some German vocab. B) It might be an OK way to meet people. C) I joined the church choir, and must admit, I have not actually shown up to mass to sing with them (but I do go to the practices on Monday nights). After half the choir and two teachers at school asking me why I don't go to mass and sing with the choir, I realized that church choirs sing at church. And as a member, I am expected to do the same. My bad.


One question: if God knows everything, can he tell when I'm being facetious?

There are Wolves among the Apples...

This email was sent by the school administration recently, trying to address thievery from the communal break basket...it really amused me. Probably because I can totally see high school kids doing this.

For full effect, friends and family, I have translated the email into English (blue script).

Apfel / Brot bei der Jause

Seit Beginn des Schuljahres bieten wir täglich einen Apfelkorb an.

An Montagen gibt es Vollkornbrot und teilweise Aufstriche.

(Ein Dank an das EW-Team und die Wirtschaftsleitung!)

Leider hat die Zahlungsmoral zuletzt stark nachgelassen!

Nicht vergessen: Apfel 20 cent, Brot 10 cent!

Apples and Bread during the Break

Since the beginning of the school year, each day we have offered a basket of apples. On Mondays there is also multi-grain bread and spread (Thanks to the Marketing team!)

Unfortunately the self-service payment practice has slackened!

Don't forget: Apples 20 cents, Bread 10 cents!

Es wäre schade, wenn wir dieses Angebot wieder einstellen müssen.

Ich kann aber den Abgang nicht aus anderen Budgetmittel abdecken.

Es geht einfach nicht, wenn jemand

·         statt 20 cent lediglich 2 cent in die Kassa wirft ….

·         eine für uns wertlose Münze vom letzten Urlaub entsorgt …..

·         ein Zettelchen einwirft auf dem geschrieben ist: 20 cent …..

·         etc. etc.

It would be a shame if we would have to cease this offer.

However, I (Administration) cannot cover the deficit through other means.

It is simply not possible to:

- give 2 cents instead of 20 cents to the cash box...

- get rid of worthless coins from last year's vacation...

- put in an IOU with 20 cents written on it...

- etc. etc.

In der Vorwoche wurde beinahe jeder dritte Apfel und jedes dritte Brot nicht bezahlt.

(genau waren es 31%)

Mein Vorschlag:

·         Die Fehlbeträge bis jetzt sind anderwärtig gedeckt worden.

·         Einige werden vielleicht ihr Gewissen bereinigen wollen.
Die sollen einfach den Fehlbetrag der letzten Zeit nachzahlen.

·         Was von jetzt bis Weihnachten mehr einbezahlt wird (über unsere Warenkosten), wird nicht zum Abdecken der Verluste der letzten Zeit verwendet.
Diese Mehreinnahmen werden einem wohltätigen Zweck zugeführt .
(in Absprache mit den SchülervertreterInnen).

·         Ab Jänner wirft dann wieder jeder/jede genau den Betrag ein, der vorgeschrieben ist!

Last week, nearly every third apple and every third piece of bread was not paid for

(precisely 31%)

My suggestion:

- The earlier shortfalls will be otherwise covered.

- Some of you may wish to clear you consciences. 

In which case, simply pay your debts.

- All that will be paid-in from now to Christmas (beyond the cost of our wares) will not be used to cover the losses heretofore sustained.

These additional receipts are to center on a beneficial purpose (in consultation with the student body president)

- From January on everyone will have to chip into the prescribed amount!

Yeah...sounds pretty formal for a school email, eh? Like a real estate contract. That means they are serious in Administration! And, no, I do not even touch the apple basket at school. I bring my own ;)

Goulasch!

In keeping with my new theme, I must, of course, show you what I made for dinner.

Although typically Hungarian, goulasch is still considered a staple meal in certain circles here in Austria. There are some "leftovers" (tee hee) from the Austro-Hungarian Empire that are just harder than others to...throw away. Such as:
                         1) Austrians are very proud of their distinct historical and cultural heritage

                         2) Austrians can sometimes be assholes about other people's cultures because they are so   

                          proud

                         3) Austrians still eat a lot of goulasch.

OK, so here I am, little miss vegetarian sitting in the land of Wiener Schnitzel and goulasch. I can't go out and try the "authentic" versions in a restaurant because they will all be chock full of meat...I want to experience real Austrian culture, but I have my principles! And plus, I find meat disgusting, if you want the honest truth. After 15+ years of being vegetarian (thanks, Mom!) I have no desire to eat *actual* beef stew or deep-fried pork.

Yet, I am feeling a bit left out. So I decided to make my own. Substituting potatoes (and more vegetables) for the meat.  From a recipe I found in Woman. See, the magazine was totally worth it!

I ended up serving it over rice, because, although you can serve it as a soup, I am getting sick of soup (first I made a garlic-cream soup - also an idea originating in Hungary - and then all I ate was broth when I had my cold...)

My other option would have been spaghetti. So, I think I made the right choice. I do not know how to make the noodley dumpling things they serve all over the place here: Spätzle, or Knödel or whatever else there is - like twelve varieties of potato- or egg-dumplings... Plus, you can buy premade ones at the grocery store, but they are way too salty (high blood pressure, anyone?) and I don't like them. Mom's are the best anyway :)

To serve with, because I am totally nuts about wine...and getting the best bang for your buck (or Euro, as the case may be...) I got this white Hungarian wine at the the grocery store - €1.99, dude! From the Lake Balaton region, which sounds nice.

Unfortuantely, once I tasted it, I discovered that "lieblich" means sweet. Like a dessert wine. Which does not go very well with goulasch. Did that stop me from enjoying it? Hell no. I just had to have a dessert then. Manner wafers do very nicely as a follow-up to goulasch...or just about anything.